“Coffees or early teas are very fashionable of late, very charming in forming social entertainments, and have been in great demand during the two past seasons among the ladies of large cities. The custom has always been popular with the Jewish and German ladies, who entertain afternoon callers with coffee and cake.”
Gems of Deportment 1880
Uh, ok. A little weird, but it does show that the American love affair with coffee goes back a long way. Indeed, after the Boston Tea Party many Americans came to think of Coffee as our national drink, with tea being too associated with the British. Because of this, Americans have come to think of coffee as more forceful, less effete and generally more egalitarian than tea. All stereotypes that would shape the American identity. The tradition of having people over for coffee and conversation became as customary to American women as afternoon tea was with the ladies of Britain.
The Kettledrum is a special kind of coffee, it has a rigid etiquette and is very much the equivalent of formal tea. I’ll cover the Kettledrum in a later post. Informal coffee was called the Kaffee Klatsch, which hints at it’s German roots. Today, we tend to meet our friends at the local coffee shop, but the Coffee Klatch, (kaffeeklatch or kaffee klatsch) the informal version of the kettledrum, is something worth preserving.
“Coffees are so exactly like teas with the exception that coffee is the reigning beverage, that the extended description is unnecessary. The invitations are precisely the same as for teas, simply substituting the word, “Coffee,” or “Kaffee Klatsch” in the corner of the card instead of “Tea.” The German term, “Kaffee Klatsch,” is frequently used. This, literally translated, would be “Coffee Chat” or “Gossip.” The entertainment is of German origin, and was adopted to fit the fiction that the stronger sex, of who the lateness of the hour captures many a willing or unwilling victim, do not reveal in tea.”
Social Etiquette by Maud C. Cooke, 1899
By the Edwardian period, the formal edges of the Victorian period were rubbed off and middle class women had casual afternoon coffee in the kitchen. Then with the advent of electric percolators they could make coffee at the kitchen or dining room table. Starting in the thirties you can see sweet electric sets with matching percolators, sugar and creamers. Coffee lasted no longer than two hours. In large groups, it’s a wise idea to have pots of caffeinated, decaffeinated and even tea option. Samovars or heat holding carafes are ideal for large groups.
“The German Kaffee-klatsch is a very simple affair. Verbal invitations may be given or notes sent out by a messenger, as is most convenient. The young women who present themselves, in answer to the invitations, bring with them some choice bits of needlework or knitting. Tongues keep time with busy fingers. Before dark coffee and cakes of some sort are served, after which the young woman take their departure.”
The Boston Cooking-School Magazine, Vol. VIII No. 5, Christmas Edition
Traditionally informal afternoon coffee is very simple. It’s coffee with a coffee cake. Sometimes donuts are offered. This is a great way of entertaining a couple of people before heading out for an activity, or with a group whom you need to discuss events with. This was the way neighborhood women across America discussed everything from fundraisers to politics and was a great way to have a quick get together with neighbors. It was meant to be inexpensive and unpretentious, and If you can keep it that way, you’ll enjoy it all the more.
At coffee, women wore day dresses, but there were no required hats or gloves. Just good conversation and conviviality.
Snobs will look down on mugs and want coffee cups with saucers. I think both are perfectly appropriate since this is supposed to be unpretentious. I say make the cup match the setting. If you’re in a very formal room, cups and saucers will look right. In the kitchen with friends, nice mugs are perfect. Just no chips, please.
I’m not going to tell you how to make a great cup of coffee. There are percolators, drip machines, Keurig and Nespresso machines. People across the country like different strengths of coffee. I like mine strong and with a mellow roast, but you’ll have to judge by your own community’s standards. I would advise having a decaf option on hand if you’re inviting people over after one pm as many people no longer drink caffeine past that time.
Coffee foods should not be fancy. Coffee cake, donuts, cobbler or crisp. Don’t overcomplicate things. Here is where the snobbery will work in reverse. Serve a high falutin’ dessert such as mousse or fancy cake and you’ll be thought pretentious. This isn’t demitasse…. Keep it simple.
So here’s to coffee. I love coffee to an inordinate degree and my intention is to bring back the Kaffee Klatsch as I think they are wonderful. I hope you’re well. I’m wishing you good coffee, good friends and a coffee cake to boot!
